It’s tempting to think of a long-running restaurant’s or bar’s story as a linear tale of success, cheered on by generations of adoring regulars. The truth is usually a decades-long rollercoaster ride of blind corners, gut-wrenching lows and white-knuckle moments of existential jeopardy. The places that survive are often those capable of adapting and reinventing themselves, and that’s something Ben Dressel, the second-generation owner of Central West End institution Dressel’s, knows only too well.

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